Fixing Sud and F35 errors on my Whirlpool WFW9600TW01 Washer

by Klaus Graefensteiner 18. January 2011 07:48

Game Over

First “Sud” and then “F35”. Game over. Our Whirlpool washer broke down after 3 years. We were quite disappointed. What a piece of junk. This blog post gives you some insights of the washer, our game plan and the solution that miraculously fixed it.

Important disclaimer

Read all the manuals and safety warnings that are provided by Whirlpool for the washer before you open the washer. Most importantly un-plug the washer from the power supply.


Figure 1: Danger: The organs of a washer

Game Plan

Our washer was not covered by any warranty when it broke down and since we were completely irritated by the cheap quality of the washer that Whirlpool makes, we decided to not call the Whirlpool service hotline and waste a lot of money. Here was our strategy.

  1. Look online and see whether we can get any clues about what exactly broke.
  2. Order parts and fix washer myself to keep cost at a minimum.
  3. If I can’t fix it myself, then go to Consumer Reports online, find their best buy washer (not a Whirlpool) and pick it up from a local retailer. Then dump the Whirlpool washer and never by anything from Whirlpool again.

Pictures of the Operation

Searching the internet for F35 and Sud error codes of our particular washer model brought up a few recommendations for further analyzing the actual problem that caused the error.

  1. The drain filter could be cloaked up. Open it and clean it.
  2. The soap sud and the piping system feeding the steamer could be cloaked up. Wiggle, inspect and test the hoses and valves.
  3. The flow sensor could be broken. Do a visual inspection of the sensor.

I got the tools out and my Nikon D40x, put the washer to sleep by unplugging the power and started looking at all the “organs”. The following section shows the pictures that I took during this procedure.


Figure 2: Unplug the washer’s power cord. Make sure it is not the dryers!!!


Figure 3: Get Mr. 7mm a.k.a a 7mm nut and unscrew the lid on the bottom of the washer that gives access to the drain pump and filter



Figure 4: The drain filter at the bottom of the washer (Be aware that a lot of water will flow out, when you open it)


Figure 5: The dirt in our drain filter



Figure 6: More dirt



Figure 7: The inlet valves for warm and cold water



Figure 8: The steamer



Figure 9: Steamer water supply



Figure 10: Making sure all hoses are clear and not cloaked



Figure 11: The steamer’s steam output hose



Figure 12: We noticed that some concrete chipped off on the left side



Figure 13: I un-mounted the steamer to look inside



Figure 14: Washer was built with parts from 2007



Figure 15: Washer was built with parts from 2007

Error code manual

The biggest return for opening the bottom of the washer was the service manual that shows the error codes and tells you how to run the test cycle and diagnostics.

Page 00A

Figure 16: Service Manual front

Page 00B

Figure 17: Service Manual back

Page 01

Figure 18: Service Manual page 1

Page 02

Figure 19: Service Manual page 2

Page 03

Figure 20: Service Manual page 3

Page 04

Figure 21: Service Manual page 4

Page 05

Figure 22: Service Manual page 5

Page 06

Figure 23: Service Manual page 6

Page 07

Figure 24: Service Manual page 7

Page 08

Figure 25: Service Manual page 8

Page 09

Figure 26: Service Manual page 9

Page 10

Figure 27: Service Manual page 10

Page 11

Figure 28: Service Manual page 11

Page 12

Figure 29: Service Manual page 12

Page 13

Figure 30: Service Manual page 13

Page 14

Figure 31: Service Manual page 14

Page 15

Figure 32: Service Manual page 15

Page 16

Figure 33: Service Manual page 16

Error Codes

Looking at the service manual I found detailed descriptions for the F35 error on page 6 and the Sud error on page 7.



Figure 34: F35 error



Figure 35: Sud error

The Solution

Based on the combination of the two error codes, it seemed like there was a blockage in the between the soup drawer and the washer. I checked all the hoses and tried to rinse it extensively by running cold and hot water programs. This didn’t fix the problem. Then I find the key combinations to run the test program that would test all sub systems of the washer.

Starting Diagnostic Test Only

Execute this procedure with an empty drum. All of the steps below must be done in sequence to reach the Diagnostic test. This executes the automatic test only.

  1. Close the door.
  2. Push power.
  3. Select the "Drain and Spin" program.
  4. Deselect the rinse option (for Kenmore only).
  5. Select "No spine".
  6. Push PREWASH or STEAM TREAT or DEEP CLEAN button (depending on your model) four times within five seconds.
  7. The automated test program is started (not possible to skip steps).
  8. To cancel the test program press the "Stop" button.


Figure 36: Executing the automated test program

Interestingly enough I ran the test program two times and two different, new error codes came up. At this point I gave up and ordered the new washer. But wait the story is not over yet. The next day I tried to run the washer again. Because I felt I didn’t want to buy a new washer, if for some reason the old one would work again. And, guess, what, it started working again. And it is working since. We canceled the order of the new washer.

What fixed the problem? Maybe just running the diagnostic program a couple of times might fix some intermittent sensor, controller or piping irritation. Who knows.

If something like this happens again. I will try to run the test program and the diagnostics first.


Figure 37: The sud “mixer”

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Tips & Tricks | Troubleshooting

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About Klaus Graefensteiner

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Klaus Graefensteiner

Klaus Graefensteiner
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