First “Sud” and then “F35”. Game over. Our Whirlpool washer broke down after 3 years. We were quite disappointed. What a piece of junk. This blog post gives you some insights of the washer, our game plan and the solution that miraculously fixed it.
Read all the manuals and safety warnings that are provided by Whirlpool for the washer before you open the washer. Most importantly un-plug the washer from the power supply.
Figure 1: Danger: The organs of a washer
Our washer was not covered by any warranty when it broke down and since we were completely irritated by the cheap quality of the washer that Whirlpool makes, we decided to not call the Whirlpool service hotline and waste a lot of money. Here was our strategy.
- Look online and see whether we can get any clues about what exactly broke.
- Order parts and fix washer myself to keep cost at a minimum.
- If I can’t fix it myself, then go to Consumer Reports online, find their best buy washer (not a Whirlpool) and pick it up from a local retailer. Then dump the Whirlpool washer and never by anything from Whirlpool again.
Pictures of the Operation
Searching the internet for F35 and Sud error codes of our particular washer model brought up a few recommendations for further analyzing the actual problem that caused the error.
- The drain filter could be cloaked up. Open it and clean it.
- The soap sud and the piping system feeding the steamer could be cloaked up. Wiggle, inspect and test the hoses and valves.
- The flow sensor could be broken. Do a visual inspection of the sensor.
I got the tools out and my Nikon D40x, put the washer to sleep by unplugging the power and started looking at all the “organs”. The following section shows the pictures that I took during this procedure.
Figure 2: Unplug the washer’s power cord. Make sure it is not the dryers!!!
Figure 3: Get Mr. 7mm a.k.a a 7mm nut and unscrew the lid on the bottom of the washer that gives access to the drain pump and filter
Figure 4: The drain filter at the bottom of the washer (Be aware that a lot of water will flow out, when you open it)
Figure 5: The dirt in our drain filter
Figure 6: More dirt
Figure 7: The inlet valves for warm and cold water
Figure 8: The steamer
Figure 9: Steamer water supply
Figure 10: Making sure all hoses are clear and not cloaked
Figure 11: The steamer’s steam output hose
Figure 12: We noticed that some concrete chipped off on the left side
Figure 13: I un-mounted the steamer to look inside
Figure 14: Washer was built with parts from 2007
Figure 15: Washer was built with parts from 2007
Error code manual
The biggest return for opening the bottom of the washer was the service manual that shows the error codes and tells you how to run the test cycle and diagnostics.
Figure 16: Service Manual front
Figure 17: Service Manual back
Figure 18: Service Manual page 1
Figure 19: Service Manual page 2
Figure 20: Service Manual page 3
Figure 21: Service Manual page 4
Figure 22: Service Manual page 5
Figure 23: Service Manual page 6
Figure 24: Service Manual page 7
Figure 25: Service Manual page 8
Figure 26: Service Manual page 9
Figure 27: Service Manual page 10
Figure 28: Service Manual page 11
Figure 29: Service Manual page 12
Figure 30: Service Manual page 13
Figure 31: Service Manual page 14
Figure 32: Service Manual page 15
Figure 33: Service Manual page 16
Looking at the service manual I found detailed descriptions for the F35 error on page 6 and the Sud error on page 7.
Figure 34: F35 error
Figure 35: Sud error
Based on the combination of the two error codes, it seemed like there was a blockage in the between the soup drawer and the washer. I checked all the hoses and tried to rinse it extensively by running cold and hot water programs. This didn’t fix the problem. Then I find the key combinations to run the test program that would test all sub systems of the washer.
Starting Diagnostic Test Only
Execute this procedure with an empty drum. All of the steps below must be done in sequence to reach the Diagnostic test. This executes the automatic test only.
- Close the door.
- Push power.
- Select the "Drain and Spin" program.
- Deselect the rinse option (for Kenmore only).
- Select "No spine".
- Push PREWASH or STEAM TREAT or DEEP CLEAN button (depending on your model) four times within five seconds.
- The automated test program is started (not possible to skip steps).
- To cancel the test program press the "Stop" button.
Figure 36: Executing the automated test program
Interestingly enough I ran the test program two times and two different, new error codes came up. At this point I gave up and ordered the new washer. But wait the story is not over yet. The next day I tried to run the washer again. Because I felt I didn’t want to buy a new washer, if for some reason the old one would work again. And, guess, what, it started working again. And it is working since. We canceled the order of the new washer.
What fixed the problem? Maybe just running the diagnostic program a couple of times might fix some intermittent sensor, controller or piping irritation. Who knows.
If something like this happens again. I will try to run the test program and the diagnostics first.
Figure 37: The sud “mixer”